Saturday, February 29, 2020

'Hoods #58: University of Chicago, January 25 2020

This one was our 10 year anniversary 'hoods!
Bill planned it.
I joined him, along with Jo, Emo (her first 'hoods!) and her daughter, Ellie.

We had seen some of this almost 10 years ago when we 'hoods-ed Hyde Park.
But Bill wasn't on that 'Hoods.
So he wanted to re-visit.
And we did!

'Hoods University of Chicago packet

'Hoods University of Chicago flickr pics page

We met up at Build Coffee. Great coffee. Good pastry. Lots of zines and 'civic journalism projects' for sale. Local artists on the walls. We took the last table. Nice college/radical vibe.

We then got in our cars and drove over to the Midway.
The weather wasn't super cooperative that day. Cold and snowy.
Though, appropriate. That's approx what the weather was like on the first 'hoods, 10 years previous.
But it meant we walked less than usual. More hopping in and out of cars.
We DID stop at the Thomas Garrigue Masaryk Monument to check it out. Czech president who had spent time teaching at the U of C. "Jesus not Caesar"

Next stop was the David M. Rubenstein Forum. The building was still being built. And Emo's the big boss on the job site. So we suited up in vests and hard hats and gloves and did 'hoods's first building site visit! VERY cool.
It will eventually be, like, a convention center/special events space for the University. It has 5 floors (I think) of large meeting spaces. One floor has raked seating. There's a cool cantilevered rooftop. There are a few dramatic staircases. Lots of windows looking out over the University and the Midway. Very cool architecture. It will be lovely when it's done. It was super cool to see Emo in her element, and to see a piece of Chicago architecture, in the making.

We then took a stroll down the Midway, visiting a few of the more significant spaces.
We pooped around the Laird Bell Law Quadrangle. Eero Saarinen architect. His only extant building in the city. We mostly just walked around the quad itself. No access to the interior for us.

We DID go inside the Mies Van der Rohe School of Social Service Admin building. It was very typically Mies. Horizontal. Steel. Glass. Black.

We walked by the Burton-Judson Courts. A neo-gothic dorm. Pretty.  Bernie Sanders had stayed there. As well as Carl Sagan and Phillip Glass.

We visited the Shaler Memorial Angel by Loredo Taft. By his old workshop.

Now we're hungry. So back in our cars and we drive a bit south of the University to Daley's Restaurant. It's an institution and I'd never been, so I was pretty excited. It was established in 1892, though the current version, across the street from the old location, is much bigger than the original, and pretty recently built. 3/5 of us got the liver and onions and it was amazing.

Back to campus after lunch. We started at the Renaissance Society in Cobb Hall. It's a tiny little exhibition space. We saw a few large scale paintings by Silke Otto-Knapp called 'In the Waiting Room.' They were fine. But there WAS an a cappella competition happening in the building, as well. And a group was practicing in the exhibition space. That was pretty fabulous.

We tried to get into Room 405 in the George Herbert Jones Lab, on the National Register of Historic Places. It's where plutonium was first isolated. But we couldn't get in the building. 'hoods fail.

So we continued to toot around the campus.
We walked under Cobb Gate.
We walked by Regenstein Library.
We took a turn by the Joe and Rika Masueto Library, like a large, clear tortoise shell.
We had a sober moment by the Nuclear Energy monument, on the site of the first nuclear reaction.

And then we were tired and freezing.
Emo and Ellie peeled off from the group.
Bill, Jo and I got back in the car and drove over to Concrete Traffic, a large scale outdoor public sculpture. It's a 1957 Cadillac which is pretty much entirely encased in concrete. I kind-of loved it. It's currently parked in a parking garage. Fabulous.

And then we called it a day!

There's so much to see and experience at the University of Chicago. Learned some stuff, even though I've been on that campus multiple times! I'm sure that won't be the last :) And I'm sure she still has some secrets to share.

Tuesday, September 10, 2019

'Hoods #57: Hermosa, September 7 2019

I planned this one.
I was joined by Bill (for the majority of the time) and Jo. Kate, Ed, Max and Sadie joined us at about 1:30.

Hermosa Google map

'Hoods Hermosa packet

'Hoods Hermosa flickr album

What a beautiful day we picked for Hermosa. Mid 70s. Sunny.
Perfect day to start on a patio.

Though, note. Parking was more difficult in this neighborhood than expected. Lots of permit parking only, mostly on north/south streets. I mean, we FOUND parking. It just took a hot sec.

Jo, Bill and I met at Rica Arepa on Armitage at 11 for brunch. A well rated Venezuelan joint. Their little side patio was lovely. We got a plain arepa to share. Like a corn fritter. We used it to try their 3 sauces: garlic, house (super spicy and vinegary) and a green spicy. Then I got the pabellon stuffed arepa (shredded beef, black beans, cheese, plaintains). Jo and Bill got some other delicious stuffed concoction. Jo declared arepas better than tacos. Though the arepa was a delight, I vociferously disagreed.

Time for a walk.

We spent a lot of time pooping around the old Schwinn factory. Huge. Now mostly empty.

Then we sampled some gorgeous ciders at Right Bee Cider. Charlie, owner and founder was our bartender. After calling us nerds for our packets, he got really into it, requesting one for himself, sharing it with a regular and local who came in after us, requesting suggestions from him, etc. We had some nice chats with Charlie while Bill and I tried 5 of his offerings. I got a howler of the Rose Cider to go. Jo got aggressively into Charlie.

St. Philomena Catholic church is imposing, has been there since the 1890s, and so it was confusing when I could find NOTHING about it online. No history. No web site. And even more confusing, when we got there, it was locked up tight. Catholic churches are ALWAYS open. On a Saturday afternoon? No? Really? Confusing. Even though on their little side chapel it said they had perpetual adoration. Huh. So no inside pics, even.

That's where we picked up Kate, Ed, Max and Sadie. Max got a snow cone from a street vendor.

Ed got a loaf of french bread from a bakery as we strolled along Armitage to...

Pipeworks brewery. It's their production facility and bottle shop. But NOT a taproom. So we had a few one ounce tasters to try some options. Kate and I got some beer to go. Nice staff with lots of answers to questions.

We got off the big street (Pulaski) and took more residential streets to our next stop. We definitely saw 2 chickens just wandering on the side of the road. I got VERY excited.

The neighborhood is MOSTLY these residential streets. Really well tended smaller homes. Bungalows and 2 flats and workers cottages. Lots of flowers and plantings. Some decor tended towards the gaudy. But lots of people on the street. Folks sitting on porches hollering at neighbors. Kids riding bikes. A STRANGE number of ice cream trucks. Mostly Puerto Rican and Mexican families. Everyone super friendly. Saying hi as we walked by. Exclaiming over the baby.

We found the church where Walt Disney was baptized. At that time St. Paul United Church of Christ. Now Bethany Evangelical Baptist. Walt Disney's dad, a carpenter (worked on the Columbian Expo), actually built the church. Even gave sermons there on occasion. Also, closed. No going inside.

Then a few blocks away, the house where Walt Disney was born. His dad built that house, too. Disney lived there til he was 3. The current owners are fixing it up and will eventually open it as a museum. But they're not quite there yet. So just an exterior visit for us.

At this point we lost a Bill, and the remainder of 'Hoods got in our cars and traveled to Ponce restaurant on Fullerton for a snack. Puerto Rican food. Super busy. Even at 3pm. And I can see why. Delicious food for crazy cheap. BYOB. We had some of our Pipeworks brews. We sat on the street patio. I had two dumplings, a banana and a yam, each stuffed with pork. Kate had a gooey ham and cheese sammie. Ed had a jibarito. Jo had a pork skewer and some corn fritters. I finished with flan. All for $29. Unbelievable. Would go back.

Jo and I finished with some drive bys of the two major parks in the hood. Hermosa park was pretty small. Kelvyn park was bigger, more populated, and had a really nice field house. It was also on this strange little boulevard.

We routed ourselves out of the neighborhood via the historic bungalow district in its Northern half. Lots of pretty bungalows. Lovely.

Hermosa is pretty far from where we live. But it was a really pleasant neighborhood with some great food. Would def go back, if nearby, for a stroll or a bite. And some cider, for sure.

Tuesday, January 15, 2019

'Hoods #56: Edison Park, January 12 2019

Bill planned this one!
He was joined by me, Jo, Julie. Kate, Ed and Max found us at about noon.



This was our 9 year anniversary 'hoods!

It was also appropriately cold and snowy. Just like Bronzeville 9 years ago. It was a little inconvenient. But mostly beautiful.

Edison Park is primarily residential with LOTS of parks and, apparently, approximately one small commercial area, just next to the train tracks. It's like a downtown strip in a small rural railroad town. We began and ended there. 

We started with a long sit down at Le Flour for coffee and pastries. Cute. Small. On a corner. The descriptions of the coffee drinks were occasionally hilarious. I ordered mine for its 'irresistible flavor.' And then we talked about systemic racism for about an hour.

Then we walked across the train tracks to Monument Park. Mostly just a small neighborhood park next to a church, with a big monument to WWI in it, alit by a huge stone eagle. 

Into the car and on to the next park. This one was Olympia Park. The field house was jamming with 3 foot high children sporting, or about to sport. I think there was some basketball happening. Perhaps some soccer was imminent. There were, like, 3 baseball fields which we walked across to get to 3 formerly dead trees, now art installations. One is carved like a woman holding a birdhouse. The second is abstract with hands reaching around it. The third looks a little phallic, a little like a popping blue pimple. They were fun. And we met team Max back at Olympia's little playground. 

How about another park? This time Brooks Park. Again, the field house was littered with small children playing with a ball. We assumed you had to have youngish kids to live in Edison Park, based on our observations. But we looked up the stats and I think only, like, 38% of residents had children? We were a little shocked. What else do you DO in Edison Park but raise kids? There were some bocce beds at the rear of the park, behind a giant grass field, lined with alleys and garages. And a small playground. 

We did the unthinkable and crossed the street OUT of Edison Park and, apparently, into Niles to check out ANOTHER park, Pioneer Park, which had batting cages and putt putt and a pretty baller playground. RIGHT next to a cemetery. Max had a 3 year old nervous breakdown, so we got back in our cars.

We drove by Turzak House, designed by Goff, who apparently designed the weird metal house in Uptown by where Dan and Anne used to live. The Turzak house wasn't as outside the box as a lot of his other buildings are. It mostly looks prairie. Very FLW. Lots of horizontal and cantilevering. It's on the National Historic Register. 

Saint Juliana Catholic Church was empty and no lights were on, so a little dark. But all the better to see their fabulous 70s stained glass! VERY cool. Folks were coming as we were going. I think there may have been a funeral on its way. We were out. 

Last park, Edison Park proper. With a hockey themed playground. Its field house is supposed to contain a toy train that we were jazzed to check out. But the field house was closed. Hoods fail. Why would a park field house be closed on a Saturday? Otherwise the park is SMALL.

But it IS back in that commercial district, the one by the train stop. So we walked past the Edison Bowl to Edison Park Inn for lunch. It's been there since the 50s. Very neighborhood. It has a bar. The 2nd room, where we ate, inexplicably has a skier and a swimmer and guy in a boat hanging from the ceiling. Mk. Remarkables from the menu: multiple offerings covered in Merkt's cheese, an Italian beef pizza (I ate), and a burger with peanut butter, jalapenos, and cheddar cheese. Intrigued. 

After lunch we walked around the block, the majority of the 'downtown' area. We stopped in Tony's, an incredible Italian market and deli, and the only real reason why Julie came with us that day. Julie got a huge Italian beef sandwich to go, as well as the small muffaletta. I got the large mufaletta. It fed me and my husband two separate meals. And it was delicious. The one other time I'd been there I got the Italian sub. Also awesome. Their meats are primo. They have all kinds of homemade pastas. Italian cookies. Italian staples. A few tables to eat at, if you can't make it home before you cram it all in your face. I HIGHLY recommend Tony's. 

Then Max and fam tagged out. The remaining 'Hoodsters decided we couldn't leave Edison Park without at least a stop in Moretti's, a giant Italian restaurant in the former Edison Park Bank. We counted 5 bars. There may have been more. There must be 50 TVs in there. They pump some crazy jams into the street, as early as 10:30am. We got some limoncello, checked out the scene, and headed home. 

I'd go back to Edison Park just to go to Tony's. Not a ton of other reason to go there. But it treated us well. It's as far Northwest as you can get in Chicago. 


Monday, November 26, 2018

'Hoods #55: Greater Grand Crossing, October 6 2018

Kate planned this one!

Kate, Ed and Max were joined by me, Bill and Jo.

flickr album Greater Grand Crossing 'Hoods

Greater Grand Crossing 'Hoods packet

We met at 5 Loaves Eatery. It was kicking pretty hard on a weekend morning. There was a wait. Bill, Jo and I got there earlier than team Kate/Ed/Max, so we sat for a bit. Apparently, as Kate and Ed were extracting Max from the car, an SUV rolled up, window went down, and a nice gentleman told them that their friends were already waiting for them in the restaurant. You guys, who was that? We didn't talk to any fellow. How did he know that we were all together? He thanked Kate and Ed for patronizing the restaurant, then drove away.

The folks at 5 Loaves were super nice. A couple of kids at the next table taught Max how to do some version of Miss Mary Mack. The fried chicken was maybe the best I've ever had in my life.

The weather on this day wasn't awesome. And the locations of the sites were pretty spread out. So this 'Hoods we conducted mostly by car.

We drove by the Gwendolyn Brooks house first.

Then we started hitting spots that had been bought up by, then re-purposed by, Theaster Gates. He's an artist who's working hard to bring function and purpose and beauty back to some of these empty buildings on the South Side.

We drove by his Archive House and Listening House. They both house small art libraries and host events.

Then we went by his Dorchester Art and Housing Collaborative. Formerly a housing project, now townhomes that house artists.

The Stony Island Arts Bank is technically in South Shore. We visited it previously on THAT 'hoods. Also during an Open House Chicago. BUT, it's a Theaster Gates project. So we were being completionist. It's a former bank that now houses art exhibits, as well as several cool libraries. The day we were there, there was a DJ spinning records from their extensive record collection. It's free. Check it out.

Gates has more projects on the burner. Watch out for future openings.

And we finished up at Lems bbq. This has been on my list for a LONG time. Great, classic, south side bbq. Smoked in the big fish tanks. Order through glass. Pay through bars. It's a machine. The line moved so fast. Know what you want to order before you get to the front! I got a collection of rib tips and sausages to bring home to husband. Just delicious.

Greater Grand Crossing obviously has some vibrancy. There was a sexy bakery called Brown Sugar bakery across from Lems that I'd love to check out. A few other shops and restaurants,etc. But there is also a LOT of vacancy. Thus Theaster Gates and his attempts to create neighborhood pride, solutions, economic opportunities, etc. There's just not a lot of money in Greater Grand Crossing. Here's hoping that better days are on the horizon.

'Hoods #54: Avondale, September 15 2018

I planned 'Hoods Avondale.

I was joined by Bill, Kate, Ed, little Max, Kris, and Jo. Joe was with us at the beginning and end. Odette and Dan joined us with their new baby for breakfast.

Something traumatic happened with my pics. In transitioning pics from my camera to my laptop I seem to have lost a good number of them from early in the day. Fortunately I had posted a FEW to facebook. So those were saved. But the photo documentation of the morning portion of this day is light. I'm bereft. flickr album 'Hoods Avondale

'Hoods Avondale packet

We skipped the Polish Village portion of Avondale cause we'd already 'hoods-ed that.

I forced Bill and Jo to join me for a morning drink at Chief O'Neill's. I'd been there several times for dinner. But always in the winter, somehow. And they have this big, beautiful patio. So I had an Irish coffee and enjoyed the nice day. They were serving some sort of weekend brunch buffet. Which I'd seen advertised on their web site but poo-poo-ed. Cause most buffets are the pits. But this one looked LOVELY. Chocolate fountains and platters of macarons. This would be a great way to entertain out of towners.

A quick look across the street at the Prop Theatr. I saw Julie perform a piece there back in the day. Small. Avant garde.

The Prop is next to Parachute, this trendy Korean spot I desperately want to try.

We then met the rest of the group at Honey Butter Fried Chicken. They're a fave. And we sat on THEIR lovely patio, as well. Nice area for kids to play.

We had a 12:30 appt at Concordia Evangelical Lutheran Church. She's over 125 years old. And she feels it. Falling down. Literally leaning. Two congregants met us and toured us around. One was an older gentleman who'd even gone to the Concordia school, back when they still had one. He showed us old pics of himself on the basketball team. Fabulous. But I gotta tell you, pretty depressing joint. Congregation down to, like, 25 members these days. We were getting the hard sell. And the Evangelical branch of the Lutheran church is pretty....conservative. Not my bag. But it was nice that they let us in on a day when the church is closed, took time out of their day to tour us around. They'd even gotten us some waters and cookies. Adorable.

We walked by the Art Colony and Music Factory. They offer spaces for artists and musicians to work, and have an open house once a month that I should probably check out.

Metropolitan Brewing has a really cute space right on the river. Super industrial. Outdoor spaces. Though they weren't set up for seating on this day. It was JAMMING. Very busy. I gotta tell you, loved the atmosphere. Didn't love the beer.

Walked by Andy's Music store, which was closed. Apparently very eclectic hours. But known for thorough inventory of instruments.

We stopped for a drink at the Beer Temple. They have some of the most rare beers available in town. I had a Scratch beer on tap. Just not gonna find that anywhere else. And their little takeaway store is chock full of treasures.

At Bucket O Blood Books and Records I bought a DM manual for a Dungeons and Dragons game from 1983. Ed bought some records. Gotta support small businesses, right?

Olde Chicago Antiques was a cool warehouse space filled to the brim with cool furniture and bric-a-brak (is that how you spell that?). But Kris spotted some sort of pro-Trump paraphernalia on his way out. Soured the experience a bit.

Lots of walking under the expressway. There was an expansive tent city set up under one overhang. Some nice-ish murals.

We hadn't had a drink in about 3 minutes (except Ed, who'd stashed a roady from the Temple in the stroller) so we stopped at Revolution Brewery and taproom for a taste. They were holding free brewery tours. But we opted, instead, to sit and sip.

At this point Jo and Kate and Ed and Max bowed out. Bill and I hopped into Joe and Kris's car.

We drove to the greatly diminished Avondale Neighborhood Park. It was chopped up pretty good when they built that expressway.

From there we called in a pick up order from Pisolino's. Apparently owned by a family member of O'Fame, an old Italian favorite of ours. We got some pizzas to go. Tasty.

And with that, Avondale 'Hoods concluded.

A few weeks later husband and I had a double date with Kate and Ed back in Avondale.

We had dinner at the Avondale Tap. It was $5 burger night. Really great, actually. Rain drove us off the patio right there at the end of our meal. So we finished up in the back room, where they were setting up their weekly Dungeons and Dragons meet-up. Big maps were being spread out across large tables. Loved it. Husband geeked out a bit with one of the DMs.

Then we walked down to Sleeping Village. It's a really cool bar with great inside and outdoor spaces. Offering interesting beers. And an event space in the back. We saw a live taping of the Allusionist Podcast.

Look, here's the thing about Avondale. It has a lot of great places to drink. A few good places to eat. But with the expressway cutting through its center, and population movement over the years, there's not much of a cohesive personality to the neighborhood. No real ethnic identity (except for the Polish Village portion). No real economic center, or architectural tendency. It's pretty all over the place. Hard to, like, get a FEEL of Avondale. Know what I mean?

Thursday, August 9, 2018

'Hoods #53: Magnificent Mile, Feb 18 2018

This was KIND OF our 8th year anniversary. Which is technically in Jan. But don't know what happened to that month this year. So...anniversary?

Mag Mile 'Hoods flickr album/pics

'Hoods Mag Mile packet

I planned the Mag Mile.

I was joined by Bill, William, Kate, and newbie Erin N!
Ed and Max joined us half way.

I know a lot of folks weren't excited about this one. Cause we've all been on this stretch of road many times. But I think we still learned a thing or two with a closer look and a packet.

We met for coffee at the Lavazza at the Drake. Their croissant was abysmal. So you know. We'd done the Drake before, during the Gold Coast 'Hoods. We drank at the Coq D'Or. I've also had afternoon tea at their Palm Room. Adorable. Recommend. pics tea at the Drake.

From there on out we mostly just moseyed south on Michigan Ave.

I made everyone go into the mall at 900 N Michigan. It was a mall.

We did NOT do the Hancock cause we did that on the Streeterville 'Hoods.

We DID go into the Water Tower Place. We sat on the awkward benches 1/2 way up the escalators. Cause why are they there? Who sits there? Well, we do. Now. There's a weird Dr. Seuss art store in there. And the Lego store with some cool lego recreations of Chicago landmarks. There's a rad looking escalator. And elevator. But again. It's a mall. Oh, except there's some sort of Chicago Sports Museum there that we didn't go into. Cause, us. But I'm a completionist. So I HAVE to go back and do it someday. Regardless of how little enthusiasm I have for the sports.

We went into the Water Tower Pumping station to check out Lookinglass Theatre. But we discovered that you can actually go in and SEE the pumping station mechanics. And walk around them a bit, from above. Through glass. Loved that. There's also the cutest little Chicago library in there that Erin uses. As we walked out we DEFINITELY saw David Schwimmer right behind us. He's a company member at Lookinglass, and directed the show that was currently running. But I couldn't manage a pic. Just a sloppy back of the head shot. Ah well. 'Hoods magic, nonetheless.

Across the street the actual Water Tower is now a little museum. It had some pics of Chicago in it. Mk.

It was time for the 4th Presbyterian Church tour. Gorgeous stained glass windows. Beautiful painted wood details. Gothic. Really enthusiastic tour guide. Spent a lot of time proselytizing to us, unfortunately. Some story about his dead father coming back to him in a dream? Yadda yadda. But they have a slamming organ and do separate organ tours. And sometimes they have concerts there. So, perhaps a return visit.

The Loyola University Museum of Art was closed that day. I'd been previously to see an Edward Gorey exhibit. Very cool. No pics.

More walking south on Mich ave. More cool buildings.

The Women's Athletics Club is a private Club. But we sure did get buzzed into the lobby and took a few pics before we left the confused desk steward behind to wonder what the hell we were doing.

Lawry's is in an old McCormick mansion. And I KNOW that they've done tours of the mansion before. I actually joined their newsletter so I'd get news of any upcoming tours. Cause for a time a puppet theater was housed there. And the building itself is cool. Until then, I'll have to appease my curiosity by eating their prime rib sandwiches in their cool restaurant space.

We did NOT eat there. Instead we went to the Grand Lux Cafe across the street. Where Jeremy was working. And was able to come over and sit with us. Ed and Max met us there, too.

Back on the street. More cool buildings.

And more 'hoods magic at the Intercontinental Hotel. We were nosing around, as we do. And fell upon an events coordinator putting together a wedding. We apologized for barging in and started backing away. She said 'No!' Invited us in. Saw our enthusiasm. Asked if we wanted to see more. We did. And so she ended up giving us a private tour of the whole damn hotel. Their super sweet pool. All their ballrooms. The place where a panel falls away in one of the ballrooms so that they could keep liquor in there during prohibition. That place is gorgeous. And we should book a room sometime for a staycation. Just so we can use that pool!

We went inside the McGraw Hill building, which is another mall. But they have some of the art deco panels that decorate the exterior on view in the interior, as well. Very cool.

The Wrigley Building is where my Dad worked as a project manager for a long time.

We WOULD have gone below ground to the Billy Goat Tavern. But it was closed for plumbing renovations. pics from my visit to the Billy Goat in 2016

Tribune Tower is, weirdly, no longer owned by the Trib. In 2012, during Open House Chicago, we toured Colonel McCormick's offices at the top of the tower. Don't know if those will be kept by the new owner? Open House Chicago tour of Tribune Tower

We ended 'Hoods at the new Apple Store on Mich ave. It's a glass box with a roof like a laptop. It has gorgeous river views, space for squatting and resting. It's nice. Though, we did see some cracking in the glass. Apparently Chicago winters are rough on that bad boy?

Then the bus home.

Mag Mile 'Hoods just goes to show that there's still plenty to learn and see and discover about even the most 'known' parts of our city.






'Hoods #52: Wrigleyville/Boystown, Oct 1 2017

Bill planned Wrigleyville/Boystown.

Me, William, Kris, Joe, and Sara all joined in.



We'd already done East Lakeview some time ago. Both Wrigleyville and Boystown lie within the larger neighborhood of Lakeview, but deserve their own 'Hoods. 

This 'Hoods was nostalgic for pretty much all of us. We had all (except maybe Joe?), at one time or another, lived in the neighborhood. And so we were revisiting places we'd been. There was a lot of remarking on how things had changed. Lots of memories. Lots of feelings. I lived on Roscoe between Halsted and Clark, myself. For only 2 years back in my 20s. But still, we did a lot of living in those 2 years. 

Got off at the Addison stop. My old stop. Now only reviled as the stop for Wrigley that clogs up the red line on game days. 

Passed by the Nisei. My old bar. Husband was on a dart league there. I used to grade papers there. I had my husband's 32nd birthday there. Much love to my old dive. One of the oldest bars in Wrigleyville. And the former hang of the Japanese American Community.

Oh there's Gold Crown liquors! I used to buy crappy wine there.

We all met at the Pick Me Up Cafe. Which I'd weirdly only been to once before. Though I'd lived a block away. We ate a stupid amount of food, in a truly cute and neighborhoody context. Not much of that left in Wrigleyville.

We stopped in Strange Cargo. Which is now (2018) in Andersonville. They moved super recently. Another piece of old Wrigley gone. I got some Obama socks.

Popped just west of Clark to look at an old Jewelry building, now condos.

And with that we entered the belly of the beast. Wrigley central. Getting bigger and more characterless every month. There were huge new bars all around us. They were still working on the hotel at the time. Now (2018) open. Tons of construction.

We hit a couple of oldies but goodies.

We had jager shots at the Cubby Bear.

William had his first Malort at the GMan (formerly Gingerbread Man). He was not impressed.

Cubs park has even changed. Now there's a huge lawn out front. Called the Park. Games and drinking and eating. A strip mall. Newer condos ring the park proper.

That old gas station is still there across the street on Clark, serving as the office for the parking lot.

Remember when I ran into my Aunt and Uncle who were drinking at Vines!? We took a pic through the gate. Hilarious coincidence. 

There was a game that day, so the place was HUMMING. We followed some fans around the back so we could get a look at the old scoreboard. Saw a few rooftops, too.

There's an old firehouse tucked behind the field.

Continuing North on Clark we stopped outside the Metro. Not sure if I ever really noticed how nice the exterior of that building is. My first time inside was back in the 90s to see Tim's band, the Drovers, when Julie and Kris and Jada were in town for Spring Break. I forgot my ID and Mike had to drive it up for me. Since then we've seen a few more shows. Not a ton. No seats. And we're old now. We saw M Ward there. Pretty sure I saw Iron and Wine there. I'm still pissed my mom wouldn't let me go there back in high school when the Dyslexic Apaches were opening for a secret Smashing Pumpkins show. Pissed.

We passed by Snow Junkie. Not open. But don't fret. Brooke and I went back in Nov. Snow Junkie pics. I recommend those eggettes filled with candy and ice cream!

Time for some history. We walked Alta Vista Terrace. This cute street of homes that mirror each other in a diagonal. Like London rowhouses. Built 1904. So pretty. So well kept. And of course there was an owner and a dog taking in the day on their patio and she talked to us a bit about the neighborhood. 'Hoods magic.

Bouncing from Clark/Wrigleyville East to Halsted/Boystown we rolled around some residential areas. We saw some big old courtyard apt buildings. A synagogue.

And popped out at the Kit Kat Club.

The Brown Elephant, where I used to thrift, is no longer there. But the Center on Halsted is. We've taken Max to storytime with Drag Queens there. Storytime with Drag Queens pics. And we've taken Max to a drag show for kids. Drag show for babies pics. It's a Gay community center with a lot of youth programming. We poked around. They have a nice timeline describing the history of the Center. There's a rooftop we could NOT get out onto (hoods down).

South on Halsted is a cool old police station.

Lakeview Presbyterian is a really pretty old Church.
And near that is the Salvation Army College (formerly a private mansion). Both of which we visited on an Open House Chicago Excursion. The Salvation Army visit was especially notable, because the Sargent leading the tour was OBVIOUSLY into Bill. After the regular tour was over, he let us hang around and help clean up. Then he took us, privately, to the upstairs and showed us the banquet hall room/stage area and some of the more private quarters. Then he gave Bill his card and invited him to come sing with the school sometime. I mean...
Open House Chicago Salvation Army College and Lakeview Presbyterian pics

There's my old Jewel!

Some of the side streets running between Clark and Halsted are really pretty. My old street, Roscoe, unfortunately has seen a lot of old buildings torn down, and new cookie cutter condo buildings go up (no offense, Tom, who used to own one). But Newport Ave still retains a lot of its old houses from the early 1900s. And trees. So nice.

There was a wait at the Chicago Diner, so we sat inside for a drink at Roscoe's. There were a lot of costumes that day. A bunch of handmaids. Did it have something to do with Rugby? Help me remember, y'all.

The Chicago Diner is vegetarian. So I had their 'award winning' shake. And some sort of fake corned beef. It was fine. People go nuts for it.

We hiked down to look at the Mandel brothers warehouse. Which maybe now houses the bathhouse? Do I have that right?

And you HAVE to end at Sidetrack. Especially when it's showtune Sunday. That place is so huge. Bigger than when it was my particular playground. Joe had never been. We were agog. So we all got their classic frozen drinks. They were disgusting but potent, as always.

And then Jeremy came and picked me up.

This neighborhood is hard to put a handle on. Cause it's always changing. Always. Hopefully the Wrigleyville side can retain some of its funk. But it's looking less and less likely as it sanitizes all of its personality away.  Make it more safe and palatable for the suburbans coming in for a game. Boystown is also getting a scrubbing. As rich young families buy up houses, all the dildo shops and raunchy clubs start disappearing. Plenty of young gay community still there. But the elders have moved north to Andersonville or Edgewater. We'll see what this place looks like in another 10 years.